Hanskinews

Read this if you want to know what Tim and Ania are up to

It’s a miracle that Kicia #3 is still alive September 7, 2007

Filed under: Uncategorized — Ania @ 2:11 am

When my brother was in HS (the exact timing is still debated, more on this later) my parents got him a cat so that he wouldn’t have to come home to an empty house. While some families might play with the new kitten, poring over possible names that fit (I imagine them saying, “let’s call her Ashes for the gray in her coat!”), the Ringwelskis do not waste their time. Kicia #3 was the logical next step after Kicia #1 and #2. Kicia (pronounced “Keet-sha”) is not even a name; in Polish, Kicia means female cat. Kicia #1 ran off mysteriously at the age of who knows, probably about 5, and Kicia #2 disappeared mysteriously. We say disappeared because unlike Kicia #1, she was not very adventurous and would not have wandered off intentionally.

Kicia #3 was the best of the 3, acting much like a dog. As a kitten, she climbed into our beds, used the soft little pads of her feet to smack us in the face in the morning when she wanted us to get up. She was playful, loving, in short, a success.

Until she disappeared for 3 days. My parents and brother (I was away in college and heard about this second hand) searched all over but could not find her. Only when they heard meowing overhead did they realize she had been stuck up in a tree about 100 ft up. My dad, the ex-fireman/contractor, got out the fireman ladder and got her down. This event marked the beginning of Kicia’s eating disorder. We theorized that the lack of food sparked some crazy eating gene in her head, because she quickly gained weight as she stuffed herself with anything and everything around. In no time, she became obese and her health suffered dramatically. She preferred to stay indoors (after the disappearances of Kicia #1 and #2 the Ringwelskis encouraged the inactivity), but when she did sneak out, the sight was pathetic. Our property was overrun by squirrels and sometimes, Kicia #3 gave into her feline instincts and made attempts to chase the critters. However, she consistently aborted the pursuit after 2-3 steps, clearly short of breath. My cousin from Sweden asked when the kittens were to be born. When one Christmas eve, Kicia found an enormous box and climbed into it, as cats often do, her weight problem was evident. She filled the entire thing with her massive abdomen, which when walking nearly scraped on the ground.

My parents instituted a strict meat-only diet and started letting the cat roam the outside. With smaller portions, our eternally voracious cat was forced to supplement her diet with killings. These were initially impossible to capture, but as she lost weight and increased her exercise tolerance, Kicia was occasionally found devouring an entire chipmunk outside of our dining room sliding door. Despite the added calories of an occasional catch, it seemed this system worked and Kicia slowly lost her belly, although the saggy skin remained. She eventually became a fully outdoor cat.

Years went by and Kicia continued her outdoor existence, as my brother left for college, my parents moved twice, and Tim and I got Rio. No one really paid the cat too much attention. With my brother gone, my parents barely let her in the house, not really liking cat hair and the possible germs.

Sometimes, the issue of vaccinations would be brought up but Kicia had never received more than her initial shots and spay as a kitten. Whenever I visited a pet store for Rio I would buy Kicia a collar, as she never had that or name tags. The collars would all soon disappear and she would return to looking like a fully undomesticated being. We all knew Kicia had been a bit neglected but no one was too bothered by it, least of all Kicia #3.

Until last weekend. Tim and I came home from NYC for the weekend and were greeted by, “Kicia has dried blood on her neck, her eyes were glossy and dirty, and she was sleepy.” Worst of all, they had let her back outside, so she was missing. As a doctor, I was expected to evaluate her injury and determine everyone’s need for the rabies vaccination. Knowing that there have been nearly no human rabies cases in the States over the last 30 years, I wasn’t too worried, but couldn’t resist my evil temptation to scare everyone, “well, there are a lot of bats and raccoons.” I was a bit annoyed that what sounded like a dying cat was allowed to go missing.

In the morning, she came back, ate and was allowed to escape again. My mom was beside herself with guilt. “She might have just gone to die now,” I casually and accusingly stated. Around 2 in the afternoon, the cat returned in hope of an afternoon snack. My irritation grew-her neck had no injury whatsoever, it was just dirty. No one had wanted to get near the possible blood to investigate. How could a mortal neck injury be confused with dirty sticky fur????

One good outcome of this was that my guilt-ridden mother took the cat to the vet. We discussed for a while what we were going to say to the vet, how we were going to present this cat. To avoid being brought in front of a PETA jury for neglect and cat abuse, my mom decided to say it was a stray that she recently decided to adopt. We weren’t sure what vaccines she had gotten, how old she was (probably around 8). All we knew was that she had been spayed.

So finally, after 8 or so years of talking about taking the cat to the vet, we finally went through with it. My mother brought her in a kitty carrying case she bought at Walmart. “Oh, you know, she just wandered over to our house recently and we wanted to adopt her.” After careful examination, the vet declared Kicia to be around 2 years old and in need of fixing. She’s 8 (or more) and had been fixed at 6 months. After that, the Ringwelski’s declined the repeat spay and the optional yet expensive HIV and leukemia tests. Kicia’s long-awaited vet visit made my polish immigrant parents, already less than ideal pet owners, so skeptical that I don’t think they’ll ever go back. Until she finally does die, most likely related to coronary artery disease, from teenage obesity.

 

My patients stole my phone August 26, 2007

Filed under: Ania's work/life — Ania @ 10:30 am

When I wasn’t looking. I had placed it on the doctor’s desk and then it was gone. I’m not sure who did it. Maybe someone was pissed about having to wait too long. That’s when my usual job satisfaction becomes a bit confused, as I think to myself, “the people I am healing are stealing from me.” It just doesn’t seem right. It was a nice phone, a Mobil Dash, with my and Tim’s picture on the screen, a large file of other photos I’ve taken, mostly of the dog, but also some resident pics, scenic shots. My medical programs. All my numbers. Some outlook contacts. Now I’ll never email that woman from Harvard who sends residents to Iraq.

My patient composition today: I quickly think of the Cantonese speaking man who had a piece of iron in his eye. I imagine how scared he was when I came at his eyeball with a needle to scrape it out. He waited a long, long time but when he left, he left with a smile, thanking me through his wife, said I was very nice. It was my first time removing anything from the cornea. Awesome.

A polish lady had a urinary tract infection (in addition to a million other complaints of “total body dolor” which should be changed to “total body bol”), a real and uncomfortable problem. All the other patients I saw today were fine and didn’t even need to be in the hospital. One guy, after being hit on the leg with a bat, was sent from his substance abuse shelter for medical clearance. He brought all he owns with him, including 2 large cardboard signs “What’s the best nation? (turn sign over) Donation” and “Don’t worry, I’m not going to clean your windshield.” One of the most rude and entitled people I have ever met came in today because of her neck muscle spasm, insisting on immediate care “this is the emergency room” (it wasn’t, it was urgent care, and she didn’t have an emergency). A kid with an abscess that had to be seen again after I drained it yesterday. A guy who needed sutures out.

And this I don’t understand. Our technician (the almost nurse, who cleans the rooms, brings patients in) left around noon today. ???? No one knows what their hours are supposed to be. They just leave without telling anyone.

The woman I was working with had an HIV+ patient spit in her eye and she had to figure out if she should start prophylaxis. FYI, apparently risk of transmission in that case is next to zero.

Came home, ate a can of herring in mustard sauce for dinner (along with 1 whole tomato, a bag of nuts, 3 slices of polish cheese, 1 medium sized carrot, in that order). Talked to my brother on Skype.

Top 3 favorite things about today:

1. removing the piece of iron from that dude’s eye

2. gossiping with the NP I worked with today – she’s been there 15 yrs and has all the dirt

3. the herring. it was really, really good. God, I’m so Polish.

What sucked:

1. Tim’s away

2. No more phone

3. My hair dye job did not go as planned. Hopefully to be corrected tomorrow.

 

Why we love the fire department August 24, 2007

Filed under: New York Life — Ania @ 1:02 am

As I write this, there is a team of firefighters outside and inside our apartment building, 228 E 26th. They came less than 3 minutes after being called by Rocky, our super. Rocky is Albanian and when he doesn’t want to be understood, he exaggerates his accent, mumbles, and gives answers to unasked questions: in short, is totally incomprehensible. Tonight, he did not want to be understood. We called him early this evening to tell him our bathroom is flooding. 3 hours later when he finally arrived to inspect the problem, he said “I shabailalh couldn’t get of fobalroaldo.” From the ceiling, a large steady stream of water was spraying all over the front of the bathroom while the ceiling in the back of the bathroom bubbled with water tension. It was getting worse and worse. We all knew the problem was the apt above us. The guy upstairs “is crazy,” gets drunk, and floods his apartment somehow. Last time this happened we were in Australia, 2 months ago. Both times, all the apartments below 5A, all the way to 1A, were soaked.

Tonight, no one was home in 5A. Rocky had no key. He tried to get in through our fire escape but no go. Then we heard a lot of banging and drilling. About a 1/2 hr later, Rocky, covered in sweat from head to toe came down to announce it was impossible to try to break in through the 5A door. During all this time, we had been thinking, “CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT.” They are around the corner, get very excited about this kind of stuff (I know from experience, keep reading), and can get into and through anything with their thieving tools. 5 minutes later, 26th street was lit up with red and white lights and sirens. Very well-equipped firemen were now flooding our stairwell.

new-image.jpgFast forward about 10 minutes. The door is down and apparently, the culprit is the toilet in 5A. So we have toilet water flowing down our bathroom walls, into our bathtub, sink, and covering our floors. (By the way, the picture to the left is of the firemen breaking the door down, with Super Rocky in the extreme foreground looking on in humiliation.)

The last time I called the fire department was about 8 months ago when I locked myself out. I had been informed earlier by our heroin-dealing 65 year-old lady neighbor that the fire department provides locksmithing services and if I ever lock myself out, I should just call them because they will do it for free. Sure enough, they brought out the massive fire truck full of men and climbed up my fire escape. Although I didn’t know it at the time, I apparently didn’t know which window was mine and they nearly broke into my next door neighbor’s house. Finally, they got the right window and were in, letting me in. It was amazing.

The fire department also came to our wedding. At some point during the cake cutting, the fire alarm went off and teams of firemen stormed into the backhallways of our church hall reception site. Since we were busy cutting cake, we thought the flashing white lights were cameras flashing and missed the whole thing.

Anyway, we love the NYFD. Nicest, most willing, most capable bunch of guys we’ve ever met. Thought we would share our sense of gratitude, especially since today 2 firefighters were injured cleaning up the fire that killed 2 fire fighters last weekend at the Deutsche Bank building near the WTC site.

 

What’s with this city? (Part I) August 13, 2007

Filed under: New York Life — Tim @ 7:21 pm

I want everyone out there to know that apparently, in New York City, it is perfectly o.k. to go through the garbage, regardless of your socio-economic status. I can’t count how many times I have walked out my front door and seen some quasi-to-fully respectable looking individual ripping open white plastic trash bags to get a good luck at the crap I threw out the night before.

I’ve been meaning to take a lot of pictures with my camera-phone to document this, but so 07-25-07_1539.jpgfar all I’ve got is this one, and I’ll admit that the perp does look at least mildly homeless. But I’m pretty sure he isn’t… he had decent shoes on.

Anyway, there are two guys I see doing it most often (it seems to be mostly a male thing). One wears a belt, a tucked in shirt, and pretty nice loafers. The other is in an electrical wheelchair, and always has a little lap dog with him. It’s a yorkshire terrier with it’s hair done up in a vertical ponytail. Pretty cute stuff. Maybe the guy is just out feeding his dog. I really can’t tell.

In fact, maybe they are just curious. I don’t see these guys carrying around bulging bags of secret treasure. It could be that they just want to read my cable bill and see if I ordered any dirty movies on demand last month. It’s possible, I suppose.

But no, I know that people do take the trash. As an experiment, I threw away a camera that I accidentally dropped (and destroyed) in the Atlantic Ocean. Packed it nicely within its original box, and set it on top of a trash can. When I came out 10 minutes later, the pseudo-homeless guy who our superintendent pays to look after the trash area (that’s a whole other story) was playing with it, and asked me if I knew how to turn it on. I told him it was broken, but he just looked at me suspiciously before tucking it away god-knows-where.

And then today, as I was walking home from the gym, I saw a 50-year old man wearing a nice button-down blue and white stripe shirt, black suit pants, slightly scuffed but otherwise respectable oxfords, and a nice leather belt bent over in the middle of the street. As I got closer, I realized that he was spending about 15 seconds wrestling a coin that had sunk into the melted tar in the middle of the street. Finally he stood up, triumphant, holding his tar-covered prize. I wondered to myself, is this some rare 1934 penny that the tar had kept in mint condition for decades? Maybe it was at least a Sacajawea or Susan B. Anthony dollar coin. I passed him and shook my head – it was a quarter. And a quarter that no parking meter, coinstar machine, or bodega clerk would want anything to do with.

This all confirms my belief that NYC takes in plenty of normal people every year, and does one of two things to them. It either spits them back out to the midwest/suburbs/country-of-origin, or turns them into mean/freakish/crazy/outrageous urban denizens.
In the end, though, this really is a pot-kettle-black post. As my eyes scan the living room right now, I notice a few things. For starters, the Ikea coffee table my laptop is resting on was not purchased – it was “rescued” from the sidewalk by my ever-resourceful wife. The antique trunk that the T.V. sits on: found on the sidewalk. The air conditioner we finally threw out a few weeks ago because it was a P.O.S.: same. The end table next to the couch, the desk that took up too much space in the living room, both street treasures that Ania considered to be great value.

On a completely unrelated note, I’ve been suffering from this strange itch for the last several months that just won’t go away…

 

Welcome to Hell (please take a number) August 4, 2007

Filed under: New York Life — Tim @ 9:10 pm

Fair warning: this post is more personal therapy than entertainment, but if someone else can profit from my misery, than there is perhaps at least a modicum of justice in this world.

So this week I had my tail up… I was feeling ambitious, and ready to tackle the beast.  The beast of NYC bureaucracy, that is.  For a long time now, Ania and I have had a rather unorthodox (read: illegal) automotive situation, from a “license, registration, and insurance” point of view.  To wit: until recently, my driver’s license was from Illinois, while Ania’s was from New Jersey.  Ania lived in New York, and I was in school in New Hampshire.  Our car had New Jersey plates and registration, but was insured in New Hampshire.  To add to the excitement, our inspection sticker and Ania’s license both expired in February, and have not yet been renewed.  The car’s registration gave up the ghost in March, and that is really where this story begins.

Now that we are both full-time NYC residents for the foreseeable future, it seemed a good time to streamline our documentation, as it were.  To that end, I made the trek to License X-Press at 34th and 8th on Wednesday.  Despite being told by NYC.gov that all I needed was my IL license to trade in, it turned out I actually needed that, plus my Social Security card and U.S. Passport.  No matter.  A few cab rides later and I was the proud new owner of a decidedly shady little piece of paper claiming that I was indeed licensed to operate motor vehicles in the Empire State, and 49 others.  While I had intended to re-register the car in New York that day as well, I began to get a grip on reality when the clerk at License X-Press handed me a sheaf of papers listing ~10 requirements for doing so.  These included (but were not limited to) proving that I either paid NY State Tax on the vehicle or was exempt from doing so, presenting the original title, having a valid and recent NY State inspection certificate, and actually being the person listed on the title (I am not).  So I took the decision to regroup – Rome was not built in a day, after all.

Fast forward 20 hours.  It is 11am, and I awake Thursday morning to the immediate realization that I was supposed to move my car for alternate-side parking (which, by the way, is one of the most nefariously ingenious civic revenue generation schemes ever hatched).  Shit – another $65 ticket.  Well, I thought to myself, at least it’s still cheaper than parking in a garage.  I take Rio for her morning walk, my eyes scanning the line of cars to see if mine has a ticket.  I scan again, and then try to remember whether I moved the car since parking it directly in front of our apartment.  No…  Shit – either it’s stolen or towed.  I begin to wonder which one would be less of a hassle to deal with.  On the one hand, if it’s towed, I get to keep all the camping equipment I had left inside.  On the other hand, it being towed means that I have to venture forth into the belly of the beast – the tow pound – wherever that may be.

Now I have a theory, probably bogus but a theory nonetheless, that if you really want to feel the beating heart of a great metropolis, you need to have your car towed and deal with the consequences.  For instance, when this happened to me in Chicago, I got to go subterranean into what used to be some kind of slaughterhouse/railyard/gilded age center of industry that has since been covered with skyscrapers and a nine-hole golf course.  That experience spoke volumes about bureaucracy in the city of big shoulders insofar as they did not accept credit cards, yet the nearest ATM was above ground and down the street in an Omni hotel.  Another aspect of my theory is that the tow pound is one of the last bastions of a true democracy.  No animals are more equal than any other there.  If you are a millionaire and your car is stuck there and you do not have a notarized letter from your wife saying that you have her permission to pick up her car, under whose name it is titled, you have lost your place in line to a drunk guy who has all his papers and will be allowed to drive right out onto the westside highway.  Stultefying bureaucracies and death are the last great equalizers that I can think of.

So here’s what happened.  To retrieve the car from the tow-pound (located in a similarly dead industrial relic, Pier 76 at 38th and 12th), I gathered my passport, the only copy of the car’s title I could find, my new scrap of paper/driver’s license, our marriage license, my high school diploma, and a box of lucky charms, and hailed a cab to the pier.

Since brevity is the soul of wit, and this therapy post is proving actually quite painful (I think I needed more time), I will re-cap the next three hours.  I hand over my documentation.  45 minutes later, they tell me I can’t have my car.  I ask why not.  They say because my NJ registration is expired.  I say, well I can’t exactly drive to NJ and get it renewed.  They say, then get it registered in NY.  I say, I would, except a prerequisite for that is to get the car inspected.  They say, mmm hmm.  I ask them if they have ever read the book Catch-22.  They say NEXT.

Because here’s the thing.  To get my car our of the pound, I need a valid registration.  To get a valid registration, I need an inspection certificate.  Since they do not inspect cars for you at the tow pound, I need to get my car out of there in order for it to be inspected.  Good times.

Well, enough drama.  Yesterday Ania and I made 3 more visits to DMV-related offices, got a 10-day inspection waiver, went to the tow pound, unscrewed our Jersey plates (R.I.P.), and surrendered them to the cashier at the pound.  Throwing the shiny new New York ones onto the dash, and $400 lighter, we saved our car from the mortuary at Pier 76.

Of course, the car still has to pass inspection, which it probably won’t since the check engine light comes on every time I go over a speed bump, and Ania still needs to get her NY License, which can only happen if we can find her original Soc. Sec. card (no copies please).  I can’t wait to start work if this is what vacation is like.

 

Captain’s Log, from the Great Barrier Reef July 19, 2007

Filed under: Travel — Ania @ 2:23 am

(somehow this post got lost in the shuffle…)

Our second day out on the reef. We are on a 3 day, 2 night trip with Pro Dive, one of the more reputable companies out there, or at least we are told by Pro Dive. The boat is in very good shape, comfortably fitting 32 passengers and 7 crew members (one more thanp7110001.jpg the boat’s sleeping facilities could accommodate-not so comfy). They are all in their late 20s/early 30s, clearly here only because they love to dive. Oscar-the 38 year old Polynesian dive master who had tired of his previous career and wanted something more from life. No, he was not an investment banker or tax attorney (sorry Kase), he played professional rugby. We quipped that most people at his age, when having a mid-life crisis, complained that they hadn’t followed a dream, like playing professional sports or living on the Great Barrier Reef leading diving expeditions. Oscar proudly admitted he had never p7100365.jpgworked a day in his life. On the boat, he is the clear leader of the pack. Then there are Macka and Jade, the course instructors. There is a little tension, as Macka appears to find Jade lazy. But the Australian version of tension among scuba diving professionals is really not very scary. Roger, the tattooed Italian cook, makes 3 meals plus snacks each day, surprisingly gravitating towards Indian cuisine. We eat curry chicken and fresh baked Italian bread, with some American touches, such as chocolate chips on the pumpkin cake (Australian cuisine is very British/American overall).

Their happy days lead me to fantasize about my potential life as a dive master, living on a boat, navigating the reefs for awed tourists. I wonder if the reef gets boring, if after a while p7110168.jpgyou just don’t care to spot Nemo for the 500th time. Or are these basic dives what they do to make the money for the cool dives, like charting unexplored reef territory, or helping to map out the effects of climate change. In the end I think I’d have to go the academic route and dive as a way to study something. Probably doesn’t matter what and knowing myself, I would probably try to synthesize it with a double major in African economics.

 

½ the people on the boat are doing some sort of certification, either the open water part of their dive course (Tim included) or something more advanced, such as advanced open water or rescue certification. The other ½ are certified divers. These certified divers make a diverse group, with many divers old or young or dorky enough that I initially p7090101.jpgjudged them to be part of the snorkeling contingent. One girl, age about 15 or 16, came on the boat with her teddy bear in hand. Another tween girl with braces came on quarreling with her brother and mother and hasn’t stopped yet (“can you pleeeaase move so I can sit down,” “you’re not supposed to fill out that box,” “I was not out of air, you were looking at the wrong bar”). A skinny 60-something year-old woman with gray hair looked like she for sure would be snorkeling with me, but was in reality a very experienced diver, convincing everyone that the night dive is worth doing. So I was wrong, none of these people p7090139.jpgwere snorkeling. Turns out I am the only one.

I am referred to as “snorkeler,” as in, “hey snorkeler, you’re back,” “hey snorkeler, can you get my glove, I dropped it in the water, ” “hey snorkeler, no wet clothes in the cabin.”

 

Despite my initial misgivings about being the only non-diver, I quickly realized no one cared. I have gone so far in my attempts to rationalize, that I imagine myself as the mascot of the group, not, “the snorkeler,” but “The Snorkeler.” I believe the crew may be a bit protective of me (they gave me a large pink noodle to swim with, one I quickly lost when I dove to see some pretty fish. it quickly blew away with the current and they had to fetch it with the motorboat, “don’t worry snorkeler, we’ll get it”). One benefit of being Thep7100346.jpg Snorkeler is that no one expects much of you. I don’t have to be anywhere for class and no one would be surprised to hear that The Snorkeler didn’t feel like going on the first 6:30AM dive. For instance, the sun just rose and everyone was sent into the black cold water, Tim, as part of his certification and the certified divers because that’s what they love. Brrr… I am in bed listening to Australian talk radio playing in the main cabin and blogging, enjoying the sunrise through my window, considering breakfast, but not before I read a bit of my book.

 

In addition to the added freedoms, I don’t feel like I’m missing too much. Most of the creatures worth seeing are in the top meter or 2 from the surface, swimming around the p7090084.jpgreef. Plenty of tropical fish, reef animals, even a turtle here and there. I swam alongside a 3 foot green sea turtle for 10 minutes about a foot below the surface before he headed towards what the dive master called, “shark waters,” (like in much of Australia, these close calls with death are given only a casual warning,”a no go.”). During the last dive session, Oscar, our dive master, took me out for a 40 minute personal scuba expedition. It was beyond amazing and kicked snorkeling’s ass. Finally, I was able to breathe comfortably, without inhaling salt water and the weights kept me comfortably in the reefp7100441.jpg p7100408.jpgecosystem. Oscar was a great guide. He had a coke bottle he made crunching sounds with, trying to draw god knows what to us. We played with the creatures that live in the coral: Christmas tree worms, flatworms-they’re prettier than they sound, giant sea clams, jellyfish. A giant tropical fish, maybe 4 feet long, with iridescent blue and purple stripes and eyeballs that looked like cartoon drawings as it surveyed us and its surroundings, swam alongside. Everything looked different from underwater than above, much less 2 dimensional. Now I can see why people scuba.

 

mvi_3087.jpgNow the negative. It is cold. Really, really cold. Apparently the water temp is 24 degrees, which is somewhere in the low-mid 70s. While it seemed warm while planning our vacation 1 month ago, it leaves everyone shivering with agony. The outside temp is similar, but the winds are very strong, cooling thep7100416.jpg sun’s rays. The wet suits never quite dry so it feels like each time you want to be a part of the amazing reef, you first have to torture yourself by stuffing your body into what feels like a cold wet rag. Although in the water, you are usually pretty warm, on my scuba dive, I was shivering for the last 10 min p7110078.jpgunderwater. Some people are much more forgiving towards their environment. But I really don’t like to be cold so this experience is a blend of torture and pleasure. At the end of day, I’m thrilled about what I saw, but I look forward to our next scuba trip in the Cayman Islands.

Here are a few other pictures we liked…

Close-up of a giant clam (multi-colored algae and bacteria grow on their inside):
p7100472.jpg

A really big shark we saw on our last day:
p7110079.jpg

Coral Sea-scape:
p7100229-1.jpg

 

 

The Longest Friday the 13th Ever July 14, 2007

Filed under: Travel — Tim @ 4:13 am

This morning I slept in. Today, 7/13/2007, I woke up in Sydney at about 9:15 a.m., with one eye half-open, watching Ania pack our bags in preparation for the never-ending journey back across 14 time zones and 10,000 miles to NYC.

 

That was 27.5 hours ago (1). I am now sitting in San Francisco’s Int’l Airport, enjoying my second bottle of white whine, while Ania shops in duty free. Now I’m not afraid to have a tipple now and again, but two bottles in one day? What gives?

 

Simple. This Friday the 13th started about 1 ½ days ago, in a bar in Sydney, where Ania and I met up with my friend Ross from Tuck who happened to be (A) in town the same time as we were, and (B) watching a play in the Sydney Opera House the exact same time Ania and I were seeing the Barber of Seville in the main theater there. Any day that lasts this long and involves so much time in an airport is bound to be a bit strange.

 

So, the traditional view of the 13th day of the month coinciding with the 5th weekday is that unusual things tend to occur. I’ve never noticed this in my personal experience, but today is perhaps a bit different. For instance, I am not one to miss an airplane. In fact it has never happened to me once in an estimated 100 or so flights taken. So I may not adhere strictly to the “show up 2 hours before int’l flights rule”, but my heart certainly skipped a beat when I opened my computer in the Museum of Australia at 1:15pm (Sydney time) to confirm that our flight was indeed at 5:30, and instead discovered it was actually at a quarter to two. So that was flight #1 that we missed.

 

No biggie. United Airlines routed us through San Francisco instead of L.A.; problem solved. We got the bright idea to go downtown and visit Bartek, who works in S.F. for UBS. Definitely worth the BART trip, but maybe we didn’t need to stop for that latte for 10 minutes before boarding the train back out to SFO. After sprinting 26.2 miles through the airport to make our plane on time, we got to UAL Gate 81 just in time to see the walkway/aerosidewalk/spacetube/whateverthehellyoucallit decoupling from the plane, and us two on the wrong side of it.

 

Let me just take a second to note that, not only do I never miss planes, I hardly ever emit what one might call B.O. Not the case today. I am wearing a brand new Queensland “State of Origin” rugby jersey that is made of a space-age “non-breathable and very heavy” fabric, and I’m sure I offended the ticketing agents in more ways than one when I told them I missed my plane because I was having Thai with my bro-in-lay/coiffing lattes in downtown Frisco.

 

Well we were originally scheduled for a 4pm (Sydney time: 9am tomorrow) flight, but now we are on standby for the 10:15 (Sydney time: Circa Autumn ‘09). But it’s hard to be upset. I’m eating Boudin Sourdough bread, savouring (er, slamming) a fine Marlboroughimg_3157-1.jpg Sauvignon Blanc, and waiting for Ania to return from her deluxe voyage into the tax-free wonderland of duty-free. In actuality, I dread Saturday the 14th. It implies reality, responsibility, us being one step closer to true adulthood and workaday lives. While most people would be severely unsettled by 2 missed flights in one day (on 2 separate continents, no less), I think it is really the ideal way to come back from vacation. Why can’t every vacation have a quick layover in the twilight zone? Just as SCUBA divers need to briefly decompress at 3 meters underwater to rid the intoxicatingly deadly nitrogen from their systems, why can’t every homeward-bound sojourner have an impossibly long Friday the 13th to help them settle into the reality that is “home”?

(1) Yes, I needed to use a slide rule, a casio digital watch, and Windows’s Clock Time-Zone synchronize function to figure that out…

 

Port Douglas. Warmth, Finally. July 8, 2007

Filed under: Travel — Ania @ 1:32 pm

Finally, after over 2 weeks of rain and cold, we have come to perfect weather. It is 70s, sunny, dry. We flew from Auckland to Cairns, the dive capital of the Great Barrier Reef. After spending one night at the Hilton, we rented a car and drove about 50km north to a smaller beach town called Port Douglas. 20 years ago, it was a small fishing village. Since then, it has transformed itself into a beautiful, natural resort town. The main attraction is 4 mile beach, a long natural stretch of flat beach of white fine sand, flanked by tropical rainforest on edges. I started every morning with an amazing jog up and down the beach, followed by a refreshing swim. There was even yoga on the beach at 8 AM, although I never made it that early. For brekkie, we started off each day with a nice french toast (me) or eggs benedict (Tim) at a café in town. We spent our 3 days relaxing on the beach or hiking. This area of the country is known as tropical North Queensland, and is pretty dramatic. There is the Daintree Rainforest Park, and all over the area there are estuaries where Salt-water Crocs (“Salties”) lurk, as a multitude of signs will warn you. 

Here are a few pictures of our hikes and beach time:

Port Douglas, with 4 Mile Beach in the Background
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The Hike up Mount Sorrow
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A “rock-hop” (more like a boulder-climb) up Spring Creek to some waterfalls
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Kiwi Sport July 4, 2007

Filed under: Travel — Tim @ 8:23 am

Ania and I are in Cairns, Australia right now (edging toward the barrier reef), but since today is one of the first days where we aren’t driving 6+ hours through New Zealand, we figured it’d be a good time to spew out a few thoughts/photos/videos on the other land down under.

So first things first.  Kiwis are mad about sport, but not the same sports I had expected.  Well, I wasn’t too surprised when everyone was pretty fired up about the New Zealand v. Australia rugby fixture (part of the tri-nations cup that also involves S. Africa).  We saw this on tv and it was pretty awesome, not least because the Australians (nat’l team known as the Wallabies) had a pretty dramatic come from behind victory after a late rally over the All-Blacks (the New Zealand nome-de-guerre).  But probably the coolest moment for us was the pre-game pep rally that the All-Blacks do before every game.  It’s called the Haka, and is a basically intact version of a Maori pre-war ritual dance.  Just check it out for yourself… it’s really badass (so much so that other teams have tried to have it banned because it is downright intimidating).  Maybe that’s why the Wallabies got off to a slow start in the match…  It didn’t help that the Aussies followed it up with a less-than-intimidating rendition of Waltzing Mathilda on the P.A. system (no joke).

Ok, what was slightly more surprising was how excited people got about the America's Cup.  Everybody was talking about it.  We were in the country while New Zealand was getting smoked by the Alinghi team from Switzerland.  Every time someone would strike up a conversation with us by asking if we caught the race on the telly, we had to rack our brains remember what they might be talking about. Oh yeah, the yacht-sailing.  We missed that, but sorry to hear you lost a 3rd race in 4 days, mate.  To be fair, the Kiwis have a pretty strong reputation for showing up at major speed-related events, having a noticeable relative lack of resources, and doing alright for a nation of 4 million.  For proof of this, just watch The World's Fastest Indian (great movie).

But what takes the cake is the fact that 3 out of the four times I turned on the tv, I img_2286.jpgthought my eyes were playing tricks on me, because grown men in all-black uniforms were playing field hockey. That's right, the sport that you forgot about after you graduated from high school.  Well the most highly televised sport during the 6 days we spent in New Zealand was field hockey (the world championships, to be specific).  We saw New Zealand play Argentina, England get smoked by India, and another game where two guys got carried off the field in stretchers before I even finished my beer. So maybe I shouldn't make fun.

After all, this is a picture of me doing the Haka.  Clearly I am not an authority on "tough":img_2433.jpg

 

Christchurch -> Marlborough Valley -> Lake Taupo June 30, 2007

Filed under: Travel — Ania @ 9:19 am

After spending our first NZ night in jail in Christchurch, the weather realized we had arrived, so early the next morning, the skies opened up. It started to rain when we got there and has not yet ceased. However, at some point during trip, we had come to terms with our rainy curse (helllloo Salobrena) and we have embraced the rain as our friend.

img_2179.jpgIt was the first day that I started to feel better, getting over my URI, and spent the morning watching movies in the lobby of the hostel as my stellar husband organized the next part of our trip. Traveling with Tim is amazing. He acts as travel agent, organizing perfectly every part of the voyage quickly, cheaply, and easily. He is a human GPS device, taking one look at a map and memorizing the city layout, not needing to look again. And he is fun and laid back. My contribution is reading OK! magazine, educating Tim on the important cultural events of NZ/Australia, such as the recent 6 million dollar nuptials img_2181.jpgof Australia’s richest bachelor, James Packer to 29yo model Erica Baxter, in Southern France. I use visual aids, thanks to paparazzi efforts, to illustrate. I use valuable car time to sleep while Tim transports me from city to city. He likes to drive and I like to sleep. Anyway, there is no better way to travel than alongside Tim Hannan. Half way through a fantastic romantic comedy, Tim gave me a freshly-baked chocolate chip cookie and announced that our rental car company had arrived with our car.

We got into our circa 1990 Nissan sedan, seemingly a mirror image of Tim’s high school Honda Accord (with steering wheel reversed) and attached our GPS device (later to be dubbed Debbie), onto the window. Off we were to Marlborough valley, to a fancy hotel Tim booked.

Marlborough valley is a wine growing region in the north-east corner of the South Island. We first learned about it from a wine-tasting course we took in Chicago years ago, taught by one of my closest friends, Megan Libby, now Wiig (Hi Meg!). Meg got a Master’s degree in wines via the French government, a program that took her to all of the world’s wine tasting regions. The first bottle she introduced to the class was a Marlborough valley Sauvignon Blanc, Spy Valley, which soon became our favorite. Since then, we’ve always wanted to make a pilgrimage to Spy Valley.

After a few hours of driving (seemed shorter to me, as I slept ½ the way) over mountains, through valleys, along rocky coastal roads advertising whale watching enterprises, we arrived at a vineyard resort called Vintner’s Retreat. The ranch-style hotel wasimg_2190.jpg landscaped with palms and surrounded by miles of vines and further out, mountains. The décor was stylish and modern. Vintner’s Retreat is known for its gourmet food and an amazing amuse bouche welcomed us in our suite, a sampling of sushi, liver pate, sautéed shrimp and champagne. We were one of the few guests staying in the hotel and were treated like royalty. Our package came with a gourmet dinner, daily gourmet breakfasts, and a wine tour of the local wineries. So we quickly ran over to the restaurant for our meal. Tim ordered the lamb, which is probably the national dish, and I got the Blue Cod, a native of NZ, but rare from over-fishing. Our waiter, Rudy, was an older gentleman with a large curled up mustache, the kind you associate with a saloon in the wild west. It was probably the best meal we’d ever had.

The next day, the rains almost flooded our car, but we persevered and went on the wine-tasting trip. The group was led by the only uptight Kiwi alive, a woman in her 60s, obsessed with “the schedule” and intent on insulting members of the group who failed to img_2203.jpgknow the basics of Captain Cook’s contribution to the exploration of the fine land we were touring. Our group consisted of 4 self-proclaimed “young” British students traveling the world for the year (when we img_2208.jpgasked how they are able to travel for so long, they answered, “we’re young and we’re going to start our own businesses when we get back”…OOOK) and a couple of American girls doing much of the same. The wines were delicious, mostly whites, with descriptions such as “mixture of berry and passion fruit with a hint of hazelnut.” After about the 4th winery, I had tasted so many I couldn’t keep them straight. I liked nearly all Sauvignon Blancs, the dry Rieslings and Gewurztraminer, but quickly lost the ability to keep them all apart. It all ended with liqueur shots at a store called “the Prenzel.”

Funny thing about Kiwis is that they like to inject a NZ wherever possible. The liqueur shop wanted the name “Pretzel” for some reason but that had been copyrighted so they added an NZ in there and voila. More examples on this later.

The next morning we img_2280.jpgheaded for Lake Taupo, a crater lake created as a result of a massive volcanic eruption 20 million years ago. Tim has a friend from school who is starting a NZ-US electric something or other company (my mind takes a nap when details are being discussed) and was visiting his parents in Lake Taupo. We had a beer with him at night and the next day toured some of the local sites.

img_2311.jpgOne was “the Niagara Falls of NZ”, which although is blue and pretty was a bit of a disappointment to us Americans. Not much compared to Niagara or Victoria Falls in Zambia. Plus, the signage was frustrating and confusing (some analytical description of contributions to percentages of total vs hydro power in the N, S,and both islands…some of which we swore were mutually exclusive) .

Next we walked through “moon craters,” an area of ever-expanding geysers which smelled like rotten eggs (sulfur). Of couimg_2313.jpgrse it rained, we were soaked, but the impression it left was powerful. Made me think of the article we read about Prince Edward. He was British royal who abdicated his throne for a hussy named Simpson from the States. Before that time however, he had to fulfill his princely duties, one of which was a post-Great War trip to the mourning nation of NZ. He sent pathetically weepy and whiny letters to his lover back in England complaining about the ugly women, the boring men, and stupid people he had to endure. One of his anecdotes said, “they made me stand next to a geyser for an hour, waiting for it to erupt, it never did.” Quite funny, bc I can understand how that might drive an exhausted public official bonkers.